Category: Systemic insecticide for scale

Scales are sucking insects that insert their tiny, strawlike mouthparts into bark, fruit, or leaves, mostly on trees and shrubs and other perennial plants. Some scales can seriously damage their host, while other species do no apparent damage to plants even when scales are very abundant. The presence of scales can be easily overlooked, in part because they do not resemble most other insects.

Adult female scales and immatures nymphs of most species are circular to oval, wingless, and lack a separate head or other easily recognizable body parts. Some scales change greatly in appearance as they grow, and some species have males and females that differ in shape, size, and color. Adult males are rarely seen and are tiny, delicate, white to yellow insects with one pair of wings and a pair of long antennae.

Some scale species lack males and the females reproduce without mating. Armored scales and soft scales are the most common types or families. Scales in other families include important pests of cactus, elm, oak, sycamore, and various conifers. Common scales and their tree and shrub hosts are listed in Tables 1—3.

Color photographs for scale species and detailed discussion of these and others are available in the California Department of Food and Agriculture publications by Gill listed in References.

Cottony cushion scale, European elm scale, soft scales, and certain other scales secrete sticky honeydew. Armored scales, oak pit scales, and sycamore scale do not excrete honeydew. It is important to correctly distinguish the scale family e. For example, sago palms can be infested by the similar-looking cycad scale and oleander scale.

Even very high populations of oleander scale are harmless to most plants, but cycad scale warrants control because it causes serious damage and can kill sago palms. Insecticides differ in their effectiveness for certain scale types. The actual insect body is underneath the cover; if you remove the cover, the insect body will remain on the plant. Armored scales do not produce honeydew. Damaging species include cycad scale, euonymus scale, oystershell scale, and San Jose scale.

At maturity, soft scales are usually larger and more rounded and convex humped than armored scales. Their surface is the actual body wall of the insect and cannot be removed; flipping the cover removes the insect body and cover together.

Soft scales and certain other types feed on phloem sap and excrete abundant, sticky honeydew, which drips on plants and surfaces underneath and promotes the growth of blackish sooty mold. Soft scales include black scale, brown soft scale, Kuno scale, lecanium scales, and tuliptree scale. Various other organisms resemble scales but have different biology and management. These include California laurel aphid Euthoracaphis umbellulariaecoconut mealybug Nipaecoccus nipaecypress bark mealybug Ehrhornia cupressipalm aphid Cerataphis brasiliensiswhitefly nymphs, and psyllids, such as lemongum lerp psyllid Cryptoneossa triangula and redgum lerp psyllid Glycaspis brimblecombei.

Scales hatch from an egg and typically develop through two nymphal instars growth stages before maturing into an adult. Each instar can change greatly as it ages, so many scales appear to have more than two growth stages.

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At maturity, adult females produce eggs that are usually hidden under their bodies, although some species secrete their eggs externally under prominent cottony or waxy covers. Eggs hatch into tiny crawlers mobile first instar nymphswhich are yellow to orangish in most species. Crawlers walk over the plant surface, are moved to other plants by wind, or are inadvertently transported by people or birds.I've got a Cast Iron plant that had some scale, and using home made insect spray and the capsules to insert in the soil gave me mixed results.

This product has saved our trees from the scales. Yes, this product treats scale. Use to control leaf scale on vines. Yes, the manufacturer's product label indicates that it is effective on scale.

Good luck. It should help to control scale as well. Yes, scale is a listed controlled disease. It works beautifully for scale. I don't know about the pH, but I've used it successfully on several indoor potted ficus trees for thrip and scale infestations, with no observed side-effects on the trees.

Yes, I have used this in my orchid growing medium with great success. It eliminated plant scale and mealy bugs from my orchids with no ill effect on the plants. I have used this product on my house plants with a hard scale infestation with success.

They do make a house plant version, which I bought this time, seems more expensive though. It cured my potted palms of scale, and although not listed it also wiped out fungal gnats. Yes, scale is a listed insect for this product. I get scale on a number of diff plants, and sprinkle some on the soil and water it in I was concerned and knew I would have to return the buyer's money if I didn't rid the plant of the scale.

Although I found a recipe for a wash and used it on my plant, a nursery recommended this product and I know it was a huge benifit in ridding my plant of scale. I did apply it to a Boston fern that had the same kind of gnats.

So far, so good. It is also good for scale, and I've had to use it for whiteflies. I like this product. It seems to work well and it doesn't have a strong odor like past applications I've used. I don't know if it's an approved method, but since I only had a few plants, I put some granules right into the soil and watered it in.

Scale Insects: Treatment, Prevention, and Control

Plants are still living.Systemic insecticides are excellent for controlling pests in yards, lawns and on ornamental trees and shrubs.

Systemic insecticides have a unique property that allows you to treat the soil or trunk of a tree and the insecticide will protect the tree and help kill invading pests from the inside out!

systemic insecticide for scale

Choose the systemic insecticide that works best for your yard, shop now. Shipping Zip Code:. Can't find the product you are looking for? E-mail us and we'll get it for you! We sell professional do it yourself pest control diyexterminator and extermination insecticide, pesticide, chemical and bug killer treatment products to spray, eliminate and exterminate pests.

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A professional granular insecticide for insects in commercial and residential turf-grass and ornamental landscaping. Orthene PCO Pellets. A professional insecticide with Merit 75 WSP. A professional water soluble systemic insecticide in 4 packets that control insects for lawns and ornamental shrubs and trees.

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Armored Scale Insects & Control

A professional systemic insecticide for insect control in turf-grass including sod farmslandscape ornamentals, fruit and nut trees and interior plantscapes. A professional water soluble systemic insecticide that controls insects on ornamental plants, trees and turf-grass.

Zylam Liquid Systemic Insecticide. ImidaPro 4SC. On Sale! Acelepryn Insecticide. A professional systemic insecticide that controls insects in turf-grass and landscape ornamental plants on golf courses, sod farms and interior plantscapes. A professional systemic insecticide and fertilizer to control insects and health for landscape and container trees and shrubs in a tablet form.Many armored scales are serious pests of ornamental shrubs, trees, groundcovers and turfgrasses in South Carolina.

Twenty four different armored scales were identified on residential landscape plants. As winters have become warmer in recent years additional insect pests may have extended their range more northward into South Carolina from Florida and coastal Georgia. More armored scale samples on ornamentals were submitted from the coastal areas of South Carolina than from the rest of the state probably due to the milder winter weather there see Table 1 for scale insects identified. Table 1. Some armored scales damage only branches, while others infest foliage or fruits.

A severe infestation of armored scales may weaken or kill a tree or shrub. Tea scale injury on camellia upper leaf surface. Adult tea scales on lower camellia leaf surface. Scale adults are the most noticeable stage on plants, and these may be white, gray or brown. Adult scales may be round, pear-shaped or oyster-shell shaped, but vary somewhat depending on the species. They secrete a waxy protective covering over their body, which makes control difficult. Some or all life stages of the scale may be found throughout the year eggs, crawlers or immatures, nymphs and adults.

Armored scales do not produce honeydew as do soft scales. The test hard covering over the adult armored scales will often have concentric rings or over-lapping layers. Some soft scales may also have a hard covering present, but it will be smooth or with ridges, but no overlapping layers. Flip an adult scale over, and if there is a separate soft body beneath the hard shell, it is an armored scale. Identification of the scale is important as it may aid in better control.

A sample of the infested plant material may be taken to the local Clemson Extension Service county office.

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From there, it will be sent to the Plant and Pest Diagnostic Clinic at Clemson University for an accurate insect identification. Euonymus scale on foliage. John A. Weidhass, Virginia Tech University. White peach scale on peach limb.

systemic insecticide for scale

Eric R. Day, Virginia Tech University. Cultural Control on Ornamentals Plants should be kept as healthy as possible to reduce the chance of scale infestation. Plants under stress are more susceptible to armored scale infestations.

Maintain plant vigor, but do not over-fertilize trees and shrubs, as this can lead to increased scale problems. Use an azalea and camellia fertilizer for acid-loving plants. Follow fertilizer label directions for rate. Water trees and shrubs as needed during periods of no rainfall, which is usually no more than weekly during the growing season and monthly during the winter. Do not use weed killers, such as weed and feed products, beneath the canopy of trees and shrubs, as this will add another stress factor to the plants.

For new plantings, plant trees and shrubs in the proper amount of sunlight for the species, plant at the correct depth, and prepare the soil for best growth. If only a portion of the shrub is infested, prune out heavily infested shoots or limbs and promptly dispose of prunings.

How to Get Rid of Bugs & Fungus on Camellias

In general, avoid using contact insecticides as much as possible as they will often kill the naturally occurring enemies of scale insects. Most contact insecticides cannot penetrate the waxy covering on scale nymphs and adults, so the crawler stage is the only life stage that these insecticides control.

Failure of contact sprays to work often results from not timing the applications to coincide with crawler activity. Crawler activity often coincides with the flush of new plant growth in the spring. However, with some scale insects there may be overlapping generations with an extended crawler emergence period.Tip the scales on these tiny suckers. The next time it's warm enough to venture outside, take a minute to examine the leaves of your camellias.

If you're lucky, you'll see nothing but healthy, green foliage. But if you're like most of us, a close look will reveal leaves with yellow splotches on the upper surfaces. Turn over the leaves and you'll spot white and brown specks attached to the undersides. You're the proud owner of the camellia's most common pest — the tea scale. As a group, scales are interesting — and often very destructive — insects.

Tiny, immature scales called "crawlers" walk on six legs until they locate a suitable leaf, twig, or trunk to feed. Then they insert feeding mouthparts into the plant to suck sap.

systemic insecticide for scale

They drop off their legs and remain in place for the rest of their lives. Many scales, including the tea scale, build a hard shell over themselves to protect them and their eggs from predators.

This shell also shields them from contact insecticides, so ordinary sprays just don't work. Male tea scales are white. Females are brown. Severe infestations can kill a camellia, but usually the result is just a sickly-looking camellia that doesn't grow well. Systemic insecticides, such as acephate and imidacloprid, will kill scales, but what if you'd like a more "natural" solution?

Then follow a three-step strategy that's worked well for the Grump. Inspect your camellias this winter. Pick off all splotchy leaves, toss them into a bag, and throw it out with the trash.

Don't worry — this won't hurt your camellias a bit. Those splotchy leaves would have dropped anyway. What you're doing here is removing thousands of eggs before they can hatch into crawlers and move to healthy leaves.

Some infested leaves may be out of reach. Spray the undersides of these leaves with horticultural oil mixed according to label directions.

The oil will coat the scales and smother adults and eggs. Go ahead and spray the rest of the leaves too, in case you missed some infested ones. Repeat the oil spray in early May. This will kill crawlers that haven't yet set up shop and those that already have. Control These Camellia Pests Naturally. By Steve Bender. Save FB Tweet ellipsis More.

Image zoom. Steve Bender. Southern Living. Close Share options.Scale sounds and looks a lot like a plant diseasebut the term actually refers to infestation by any one of more than 7, species of tiny sap-sucking insects. Scale insects typically adhere to the stems, branches, and sometimes the leaves of plants to feed on sap, and they have a shell-like bump appearance, which sometimes causes them to be mistaken for a fungal or bacterial disease.

Because there is such a vast number of different scale insect species, there is a good chance you will encounter them in your garden or on your houseplants at some point. Scale insects vary greatly in color, shape, and size.

systemic insecticide for scale

Different varieties of scale can be white, black, orange, or a color that blends in with the plant's coloring, making them even more difficult to detect. However, you will never see just one of them, which makes them hard to miss. Scale almost always appears in clusters. Unlike other insects, they are immobile once they lock themselves into place to pierce the plant and begin feeding on sap.

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If you see clusters of tiny shell-like bumps on the stems or leaves of a plant, there is a good chance you are looking at a scale. Scale insects are usually divided into two groups: soft scale, and hard or armored scale.

The shell also makes it difficult to use a pesticide because it has trouble reaching the insect inside. Different species of scale insects favor different plants. Plants frequently infested with scale include Euonymous, magnoliaand fruit trees and shrubs. Mealybugs, a widespread garden pest, are also part of the soft or unarmored scale family.

But mealybugs are somewhat larger than most scale insects, which makes them easier to identify as an insect rather than disease. Scale insects are very adept at protecting themselves at most stages of their life cycle. Control measures are most effective during what is called the scale insect's "crawler stage"—the nymphs that appear soon after the eggs hatch. At this point, the nymphs have legs and are actively crawling to find new spots to attach and feed.

This is the time when they can be effectively killed with pesticides. However, timing is everything and there is a very short window of opportunity.

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Because adult scale insects are so firmly attached to their host plant and covered in their armor coating, they can be almost impossible to exterminate. Sometimes it is easier to simply throw out infested plants rather than take all the steps necessary to try and eradicate the scale. Quick removal can prevent the scale from migrating to surrounding plants. Scale is a difficult problem to combat, and you may need to employ all of these materials if infestations are frequent and widespread.

Scale insects in the garden can be combatted in a number of ways, the best of which involves prevention or removing infested plant material before the insects can spread. Since there are no natural predators indoors, scale insects will spread even faster than they do outdoors.

You will need to be extremely diligent about controlling or removing scale when it infests indoor plants. If you catch the problem early enough, pruning out the infested stems could alleviate the problems. Keep a close eye for several weeks to make sure no new scale appear on the plant. Dispose of the pruned stems immediately. Remove existing scale on houseplants by rubbing gently with a facial-quality sponge or cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.

The alcohol alone should kill the scale, but the dead insects will remain on your plants and make it difficult for you to scout for new infestations.Magnolias, members of the genus of the same name, are trees and shrubs grown for their foliage and attractive, fragrant springtime blooms in shades of white, cream and pink.

Numerous pests occasionally prove problematic on magnolia, including species of armored scales like the California red, greedy and oleander scales and the soft tuliptree scale. When a scale population on magnolia is causing foliage or bark problems or, in the case of the tuliptree soft scale, excreting excessive honeydew, you will need to treat the problem. Horticultural oils, also known as narrow-range, supreme or superior oil, are specially refined petroleum products applied during the dormant season or later, when crawlers, the active stage of the scale life cycle, emerge.

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To effectively time oil application, wrap transparent double-sided tape around several infested branches. To best use this key method on the magnolia scale fact sheet, change the tape weekly and inspect it with a hand lens to look for stuck crawlers, which appear as tiny yellow or orange specks.

Once the trapped numbers begin to decline, spray the magnolia's bark and foliage thoroughly with horticultural oil. Provide the magnolia with adequate water for several days before oil application to avoid injuring it when you apply the oil.

Do not apply horticultural oil when weather within 24 hours of application could include temperatures below freezing or above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, fog or rain. Tuliptree scales and other soft scales secrete a sticky, sweet substance known as honeydew. Ants feed on this substance, and protect the scales that secrete it from natural predators.

So, you see ants on a magnolia, you may need to treat. Along with magnolia scale predators are also a concern. Control ants by wrapping the trunk with fabric or tape coated with a sticky material to trap ants or treat with slow-acting, enclosed pesticide baits that contain boric acid, fipronil or hydramethylnon.

Systemic insecticide application is another control option, particularly for tuliptree scale problems on larger trees where it's difficult to treat all the leaves.

Apply imidacloprid as a soil drench in late winter or early spring before rain is expected. The imidacloprid is absorbed by the roots and moved within the magnolia to provide season-long control in some situations. Applying a systemic insecticide to the soil also limits chemical spray drift and damage to beneficial insects.

Additionally, pyrethrins and malathion offer control of tuliptree scale. Always follow manufacturer instructions when applying insecticides.